Tangier. Go.

By Erica

I can’t say Tangier was on my bucket list, but when my travel buddy friend proposed a trip there, I was—as I almost always am—game. It turns out Tangier is a wonder. At the verymnorthern tip of Africa, Tangier sits where the Atlantic Ocean, Mediterranean and the Straits of Gibraltar meet, and Spain is only a 90-minute ferry ride away. A Muslim country with a history of internationalism, it is open-minded and welcoming to others of all stripes. The King’s fondness for the northern region of his Moroccan realm is giving it new life.

And Tangier has even more to recommend it: its lovely people, the sweeping views and white buildings, the freshest fish, superb rugs and markets, not to mention the temperate weather. Three things, though, made this trip particularly serendipitous: a hotel like none other, a wonderful guide who arranged special visits to private homes and visits with their owners, and also arranged to have a most patient and knowledgeable local guide take us through the streets of the city and beyond, giving us not only a sense of Tangier’s unique past but also its hopes for its future.

First, our hotel, the Villa Mabrouka. Formerly one of the many Moroccan homes of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Berge, it was bought by Jasper Conran (son of Terence) and opened as a hotel in 2023. Sitting behind walls in the center of the old part of town, the 1940’s Villa has twelve beautifully appointed rooms, gorgeous gardens, stunning views and a restaurant that seems to be a social center for both visitors and residents. Everything in it is beautifully understated, including its most helpful staff. You just walk in and breathe. It’s perfect.

Second, if you’re interested in interior design as we are, you undoubtedly have seen pictures of the fabulous homes of famous designers in Tangier. The World of Interiors is full of them. Thanks to the absolutely delightful Pin, an Australian who over the past eight years has become an integral part of the cultural, civic and social life of Tangier, many of those designers have not only become her friends and but also have trusted her to show off their private homes. It was like entering another world, an enclave of world-renowned creatives who came to Tangier in the 60’s, 70’s and 80’s as an affordable place where they were welcomed, comfortable, and could exercise their creative chops.

We visited the spectacular, carefully curated yet very homey, estate of the late Christopher Gibbs, an antique dealer who influenced an entire generation. We had lunch in the carefully planted wild gardens of the Italian author Umberto Pasti. (His cook is to die for; his gardener is charming.) We were hosted by Gene Meyers for cocktails and a tour at the Kasbah home he shares with AD 100 designer Frank di Biasi. We were bowled over by our tour and brief meeting with another AD 100 designer Veere Grenney. His house and gardens and pool, and just about everything in them, are breathtakingly beautiful. Last but not least, was a marvelous visit with Gordon Watson, a famous dealer/collector and leading authority on British antiques, TV personality and general bon vivant who knows volumes about, and has opinions on, just about everything. He is a simply fabulous luncheon companion. Everything was on the table, from politics to decoration to fashion to collecting to gossip. How delightful! We could have stayed and talked for hours.

Finally, our local tour guide, Ahmed, who took us to the lovely ocean side town Asilah where everything is blue and white, we had a delicious lunch at Restaurant L’Ocean, and bought a rug from Omar. (Ahmed is a very patient man.) Ahmed also introduced us the Medina and the Kasbah and generally made the entire city come alive.

The sun was shining as we headed to rainy and cold Paris. We had a lovely two days there as we always do. And, of course, we ate well. Highly recommend these:

• La Bourse Et La Vie. Maybe eight tables. An American chef with a French twist. Even if you don’t eat much beef, the “faux” beef is worth it. And don’t forget the fries. And the sorbet (lemon with thyme, olive oil and chocolate!);
• Le Bon Saint Pourçain. Maybe my new favorite bistro. Small. Wonderful chicken and chocolate ice cream. And the most helpful and friendly staff. Could imagine it home
  away from home. On Saint Suplice.

If you get the opportunity to go to Tangier, go. And, as always, there’s Paris.

PS: Remember our travel tips can also be found on The Lustre List (on our website) for easy reference in the future.