Ten Reasons To Go To London. Actually, Nine. Too Late for Brexit Day.

By Karen

My husband was lucky enough to go to London for work, and I was lucky enough to join him for a long weekend. We have both lived in London at different times and are always happy to go back. 

London looked wonderful—lively and bustling even in the January weather, which was quite … English. And we did lots of things that were new to us.

• We happened to be there for Brexit. Brexit worries me, and it apparently worries a number of protesters who were in evidence near Parliament. But most people seemed to expect that it will have no real impact. I hope those cheerful Londoners are right, and it’s probably correct that London has been through worse.

• Have you ever been to the House of Lords? We went, for the first time, at the gracious invitation of one of the actual Lords, and his equally gracious Lady. After observing proceedings, we had lunch in the Lords’ dining room. Pretty awe-inspiring for commoners like us! And then we were introduced to the gift shop, selling items such as potholders and wine and golf paraphernalia, all emblazoned with the House of Lords brand. Puts the whole #Megzit strategy in a new light. Rule Britannia!

• Leo Villarreal—a light artist whose many public works we think splendid—has been retained to light up the bridges over the Thames, a project called Illuminated River. (His first, brilliant bridge project is The Bay Lights, at the Oakland Bay Bridge.) Four bridges—London, Cannon Street, Southwark and Millennium—are now lit. Elegant.

• The food in London is just getting better and better. We had a most delicious lunch at Julie’s Restaurant, a newly reopened institution we had not known before, and a really delightful dinner at Brawn. A whole fleet of new and interesting restaurants has popped up in neighborhoods off the beaten track. Brawn is in East London, many are in Shoreditch. London is huge, so you need help finding new places. We like this resource.

• One of our favorite painters (maybe because he studied law before making a sharp turn?) is Craigie Aitchison, a crusty old Scotsman, now gone, with a dreamy, mystical vision. We learned that a show of his work would be coming down just as we arrived, so we called the gallery, Piano Nobile in Holland Park, to see if we might come along anyway. The gallery turned out to be a very special place, and its proprietor, Matthew Travers, could not have been more welcoming or knowledgeable, especially about twentieth century English artists. The show was completely fantastic. We had the best afternoon!

• Another extraordinary, completely different show is Troy, at the British Museum. You know the story—beautiful Helen, noble Achilles and his vulnerable heel, the horse, the difficult gods—but you have never seen it like this. The drama, the violence, the blood, the insanity—all are palpable in this remarkable exhibition.

• On our London visits we have experimented with different hotels and locations. This time, we stayed at the Shangri-La Hotel, in the Shard. Amazing views, good rooms, a few quirks. (Who really needs a hot toilet seat?) Best of all, a fabulous neighborhood, right on the river and near Kings College and the Borough Market, full of food shops—cheese, bread, sausages, fruits and vegetables, wine, olive oil—everything a person needs to live. Also lots of small restaurants with great food. (We never made it to Padella, due to its vast long lines at all hours. Must be amazing.) From there it is a short, lovely walk to the Tate Modern, now hosting a startling Kara Walker installation.

• We travelled by ferry to Canary Wharf, which was a treat. The project, commenced in The Docklands in 1988, is now a huge financial center and associated retail and living spaces, built around the West India Docks on the Isle of Dogs. (The Dogs may have been the hounds of one or another King—or may not.) Very water focused. Lots of seagulls. I loved that—and the excellent public art as well.

• The Jubilee Line gets you to Canary Wharf in a flash if you haven’t time for the boat—and the Canary Wharf station is cool. Wherever you go, you will want to make use of the Tube. Traffic has become unbearable at rush hours, and at other times as well. Cabbies offer various reasons—a total failure of congestion and emissions pricing, car services, the Tube not working well. And of course London is not alone. Our cities will soon be at a total standstill if we don’t come up with a plan. I rather like the idea of flying cars, but I am sure that would just elevate the same terrible traffic.

• Finally, we saw Leopoldstadt, Tom Stoppard’s extraordinary new play, and apparently his most personal. If you can’t get to London, it will surely come to the U.S.  When it does, go see it. Tragic and comic and timely, with fantastic staging. Bring tissues.

Go to London soon! Anything could happen, so go now, and have fun!