Old Jaffa: A Picturesque Must-See In Tel Aviv.
By Sharon Kurtz
Old Jaffa, A Delightful Home Base.
Ask any local what the one must-see place in Tel Aviv is, and they will likely exclaim Old Jaffa!
With its unique old-world atmosphere, this vibrant neighborhood is entirely different than the rest of celebrated Tel Aviv. Jaffa, also known as Yafo, is one of the most ancient cities in the world. Archaeological digs and early papyrus documents reveal that Jaffa existed as a seaport more than 4000 years ago, the world’s oldest harbor in continual use. Many Biblical stories are connected to Jaffa, including Jonah and the Whale.
Today Jaffa is still a port for local fishermen and small boats. Still, it’s easy to imagine the days when traders arrived by sea and transferred their goods on camel caravans to Jerusalem and beyond. Jaffa exudes a sense of history around every corner. On a hill overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, old brick houses line a warren of cobbled stone paths with panoramic views, where narrow stairs lead down to the seafront. You will love wandering around the winding alleyways interspersed with art galleries, mosques, and churches.
After Israel’s independence in 1948, Jaffa was annexed to Tel Aviv and became known as Tel Aviv-Yafo. For years it was home to immigrants from Arab countries, an inexpensive place to make a fresh start. Since rebuilding in the 60s, it has become filled with artist quarters, studios, galleries, and restaurants. And even now that it has been consumed by the vibrant and cosmopolitan city of Tel Aviv, Jaffa still maintains its unique character and historic vibe.
The Jaffa And Slow Travel.
Sometimes when we travel, we get caught up in the rush of moving from place to place and never enjoy the location where we stay. Often that includes early morning wake-up calls, returning to the hotel after dark, and missing the nearby local culture. Having to rest up when you get home from your vacation does not have to be a part of the travel experience. There is another way.
Israel is a small country, and it’s possible to take day trips to all the places on your itinerary from a central location. I have discovered The Jaffa, a Luxury Collection Hotel in Tel Aviv. This five-star property has been included on Conde Nast’s 2023 Gold List for hotels in the world. Like its namesake, the hotel is a mix of old and new—a fusion of ancient Jaffa and modern luxury that offers a perfect blend of service, style, and relaxation.
Set within a restored 19th-century complex that once housed Jaffa’s French Hospital, the centerpiece in the entrance to the Jaffa is a stunning remnant of the 13th-century Crusader wall. My favorite spot is the Chapel, with stained glass windows, grand archways, and soaring vaulted ceilings, currently used as an event space. You can almost feel the presence of the French nuns who once worshiped here.
The Jaffa is a luxurious home base to enjoy the spa, restaurants, and beautiful aquamarine pool lined with loungers. The lobby bar area features sheshbesh, a board game known in the West as backgammon, for relaxing at the end of the day. It is surrounded by the city’s most fashionable neighborhood—only steps from the beach. Attractions like the Shuk Hapishpeshim flea market, Museum of Antiquities, and local boutiques are just a short walk away.
Dining Options Abound.
I got a great tip from the concierge at The Jaffa for a walking distance dining option. Beit Kandinof is a combination art gallery, bar, and restaurant with a fun atmosphere. Located in the Kandinov House, it was built adjacent to the walls of Old Jaffa and the port walls at the end of the 19th century.
When traveling solo, I love to sit at the bar and chat with the bartender. After discussing menu options over a glass of wine, his excellent recommendations resulted in the best meal of my visit to Tel Aviv. The Yellow tomato gazpacho with cucumber and chili oil had me licking my spoon; the grilled local bryndza sheep cheese, perfectly prepared white fish sashimi, and a flavorful seafood bisque with crispy Jerusalem artichoke made for a most memorable Tel Aviv dining experience.
Walking back to the hotel, my steps echoing on the cobblestones under a starry night sky, I reflected on the history of Jaffa and how much travel enriches my life. I feel so lucky to have had this experience, and I look forward to coming back and exploring more of Israel soon.
Sharon Kurtz is a freelance writer who shares her love for travel and food by exploring unique customs, cultures, and flavors at home and around the globe. Follow her on her website, Instagram or Facebook.
