Copenhagen: A Purposeful City.
By Karen
For the last week of August, my husband and I visited Copenhagen—a first for me. We travelled a lot this summer, but this was the real vacation.
We rented an airbnb in a central location. The apartment was not without quirks. (What are four-inch deep closets actually for??? Why no towel rods??? And what were those biting bugs???) But we enjoyed buying food and wine—some from Torvehallerne, an amazing food market—and having coffee at home, like locals.
Our apartment was very near Nyhavn—the waterfront surrounded by colorful old buildings that can be seen on every advertisement for Copenhagen. Nyhavn is beautiful, you must go, and you must have Danish smørrebrød—open faced sandwiches on thin dark bread piled high with just about anything—in one of the nearby eateries. (A trip on one of the boats that can be found in this district seems like a great idea. Unfortunately, we waited til the last day, when it poured, so we will need to go back!)
But there is so much more to the city. It is far from a museum to the past. Here is what we found most interesting.
Everyone bikes, so there are rivers of bikers—but purposeful design allows the city to remain civilized. The bikers stay in the bike lanes, each of which goes in one direction; they obey red lights; and the bikes do not have motors. Pedestrians are not viewed as roadkill. Hmm. Take note, NYC mayor. These might be some ideas to emulate.
We were near the central government buildings, which are quite lovely. If you decide to tour them, consider watching Borgen first. Probably not entirely realistic, but fun!
Denmark is all about design, and so is its capital. Design in your home, design of your home, design of your neighborhood, and city, and region, design of your clothing. Every aspect of life is animated by purposeful thought, mandated in some cases by the government, as when a new building is proposed, and always by culture—though at least some of the people we met wondered whether that culture would survive if—when—Denmark’s population becomes more diverse. But for the moment the intentionality shows, in a good way.
Home design, of various vintages, can be seen everywhere, in all kinds of shops and museums. Arne Jacobsen is revered as the father of it all. The Design Museum Denmark features his work, and is especially good for the history of Danish design, and how it plays out in contemporary life.
Of course there are many historic buildings, and in the central city the deliberate marriage of older designs with modern architecture is fascinating. Further out, the architecture is mostly new. We especially liked buildings on the outskirts of Copenhagen, built according to the decades-old Five Finger Plan, which established public transportation, and allowed development along the five fingers (though there is now at least one more finger), reserving the area in between the fingers for green space.
Bjarke Ingals has made his mark with inventive buildings everywhere—beginning in the newly developed neighborhoods. He is driven by a concept he calls hedonistic sustainability. Love it!
His firm, BIG, has created a garage accessed by a funicular and topped by mountain houses; a residence that allows you to bike to your penthouse; and a building that allows your and your neighbors to party together, each on your own Darth Vader balcony. Copenhill, a waste-to-energy plant that was designed with a (dry) ski slope and the tallest rock climbing facility in the world.
The Danish Architecture Center, itself a cool museum situated on the river, is a must. Its building, BLOX, is one of many created to renovate the harbor front, left vacant and deteriorating after the shipping industry declined. The renovation includes many witty and fun elements, including pools, and has integrated older and newer buildings, business and governmental and residential neighborhoods, and of course the water. When you go to the DAC, plan to have lunch on the top floor, for gorgeous views in a cool cafeteria with excellent food--BLOX EATS.
Art is everywhere as well. Copenhagen has several museums, but the most exciting for us was Louisiana, a short train ride away. Louisiana is series of buildings containing a fabulous modern art collection, and a glorious sculpture park by the water. Why the name? The man who owned the land and the original house married three Louisas—in succession, we think. Louisiana is a must, and you must dine outside—smørrebrød of course. We were there on a blustery day, and while we ate we watched a seriously mobile, wind-driven Calder bang into itself.
Smørrebrød is great, but there is much more to the dining scene. World famous Noma has spawned many accomplished chefs who have opened their own very individual restaurants. Admiralgade 26 is cozy and intimate, with an inventive menu. Restaurant Barr is casual, and offers pleasant comfort food, as that is defined in Denmark. Alouette is delicious and beautiful, in a crazy industrial part of town where rock bands practice. (Don’t worry--it’s quiet!) Koan is remarkable, a spare, lovely space in a park near the industrial waterfront. Its Korean-inspired menu is extraordinary, as is its proprietor. Do go, and if you are so inclined, you can linger by the Little Mermaid on the way.
Sweden is nearby, so we took a one day trip to Malmo and Lund over the disappearing bridge. (I have read many mysteries set in Malmo, and it is home to Twisted Torso, another Bjarke Ingels creation, and the mother ship for Gudrun Sjoden, a clothing brand many friends swear by.) Sweden was not soooo different from Denmark but we learned that there are more declarations of war between these two countries than any others.
We didn’t do that much shopping, but found some delightful Danish products. I discovered Stine Goya, a designer whose color sense I loved. My husband found gorgeous fisherman’s sweaters at Andersen Andersen, and elegant Danish watches at Ole Matheisen. Illium is the excellent local department store. Go so you can view its selection of Danish design, and then dine in one of the informal restaurants on the top floor, taking in the view after you peruse the stylish home goods.
Copenhagen is beautiful, and was eye-opening for me. A grand introduction to the Nordic world. I can’t wait to go again.
