An Audacious Move: Invest In Jewelry. For Yourself.
By Karen and Erica
A couple of years ago, we were chatting with a very senior executive at a very important “high” jewelry house, complaining that retailers and marketers were ignoring our demographic, and explaining why they shouldn't. We were taken aback when he said that women do not often buy fine jewelry for themselves. Thinking about our own experiences, we could not disagree. Most of our “good” pieces were gifts.
We wondered why that might be. Could it be because, from the time we began to notice jewelry we saw only ads that featured men buying women diamond engagement rings, or maybe possessively draping necklaces around their necks, from behind? And absolutely no ads that featured women buying anything for themselves? That has changed a little—Mejuri’s new campaign is: “Diamonds for my damn self.” But messages like that are few.
And why, in turn, is that? Likely it harkens back to a time when men had all the money. Many women acquired serious jewelry—and other valuable things, like homes and cars—only at the whim of their men. And many likely wore their jewelry—whether they liked the jewelry or not—to make those men happy.
Obviously, all that has changed. We, especially the women in our demographic, certainly have the wherewithal to buy fine jewelry for ourselves. We even buy for our men! We wear jewelry that makes us happy, and as part of an image we have chosen quite deliberately. We know what we like, and we think jewelry is a good investment. So much more amusing than a book entry on an electronic ledger—though those have their merit too.
At the same time, many of us are intimidated by expensive jewelers, unconvinced that they want our business. That seems counterproductive.
Why don’t jewelers make sure we know that our business is important? Show us wearing wonderful gems while we are doing wonderful things—like running our businesses. Show women over forty wearing jewels. Show us browsing with our girlfriends in attractive venues—warm and welcoming, interesting, informative, and elegant. A nice glass of wine would not be amiss.
Even while you are waiting for things to change, you can have some fun in your local establishments. Here are some of our own local favorites.
One of the best is Verdura. A most congenial place that is a surprise right from the start. To get there you go into a big stone building in midtown Manhattan, up an elevator and down a very unprepossessing hallway. Suddenly the door opens, and you find yourself in a brilliant series of lovely boxes with windows overlooking Central Park. The gallery contains historic items, like CoCo Chanel’s cuff bracelets. The jewelry is just gorgeous, and the story behind that jewelry paints the picture of a glamorous world you would love to visit. In better times Verdura holds splendid events, sometimes including Cole Porter songs, reflecting the role Cole Porter played in its creations.
Then there are the downtown boutiques. Gurhan Atelier is a relaxed workshop in Tribeca, full of graceful gold and silver pieces. Ted Muehling, also in Tribeca, features delicate, organic shapes. We have long been fans of Reinstein Ross and its cozy atelier on Gansevoort Street. Each establishment will make you feel at home, and a visit will be a treat even if all you do is look.
If you want to check out a ”high” jewelry store midtown, try Van Cleef & Arpels. The Fifth Avenue boutique is welcoming, the staff informative, and the jewels amazing. In better times Van Cleef provided fascinating courses in its School of Jewelry Arts, and some are now online. We once had the chance to tour the workshop in Paris, right on Place Vendome. What an experience. The craftspeople are artists, incredibly knowledgeable about their work. The construction of each piece of fine jewelry is an engineering feat, sometimes taking months, that makes fantasy real. The prices reflect the expertise—and the history.
Of course there are many other delightful jewelry stores to explore. So think about it. When we all can be together again, meet your friends for lunch and then have a look at one of these, or some other, inviting shop. If nothing else, you may learn something. But you might also see a beguiling piece, and you might feel rather empowered if you invest in something magical.